What yarn should I buy? You can't imagine how often this question is asked by knitters. And since the idea is for everyone to enjoy their knitting even before they start weaving, we decided to prepare this XL content to help you when choosing your materials. Because it's not enough to fall in love with a color to start knitting that project you have in mind. No, not at all! There are many factors that determine the result, and the idea is to know them thoroughly.
The ideal is to know what project we want to start, so as not to accumulate (so much) material waiting. If we have already decided on the pattern, perfect: we have certain guidelines. But when there is only one idea, it is important to get it down to earth as much as possible before deciding on the material. Because knitting clothes for a newborn is not the same as knitting a winter sweater for ourselves, or an accessory for our bed. If we know what we want, of course we can successfully reach our goal.
Knitted by Ximena Ballivian.
There are key elements in every project, such as thickness, texture, drape, finish, looseness and even the use we will give to the project in question. And to start, we could basically divide the fibers into natural ones -of animal or vegetable origin-, synthetic ones -generally cheaper at the expense of their quality- and mixed. In each group there are many different groups, but since premium wools of natural origin are our specialty, we are going to delve into them.
The weight of the yarn will determine whether a project will be lightweight or have more body. Thick yarns (Aran, Worsted, Bulky and more) work well in outerwear or accessories like hats and scarves. They are also useful when doing colorwork. For garments that will be closer to the body and need to offer more mobility, DK, Sport or Fingering yarns can be appropriate and are versatile. Obviously, we are referring to single strand work and not a combination of weights.
In all cases, it is advisable to get as close as possible to the number of needles suggested in the pattern or the technical sheet of the yarn, so that the result has the indicated body and size, but not excessive weight or volume. If the needle is too thin, the fabric will be stiff and bulky. Otherwise, the weave will be too loose, losing grace and neatness. The tension with which the knitter works also influences this aspect, so to confirm whether the thickness, needle and our tension are adjusted to what we are looking for, we need to make the corresponding sample.
And what about texture ? It is not only the stitch that we will develop, but also how the wool behaves when making that particular stitch. And here the structure of the yarn plays an important role, which will give a more rustic result, if it is a single carded strand, or more refined, when the strands are at least two and are both combed and twisted together. The latter allow a more defined finish, ideal with openwork or to show off complex stitches that would otherwise not be justified.
Knitted by Sonia Martinez.
As for the drape , it is essential if we knit garments. It aims at the movement of a finished weft, the adequate density to offer us comfort when we wear them and the grace with which it accompanies our own mobility. It depends on the quality of the raw material, its lightness and how airy its fibers are. Some projects will require a light drape and others, a little more weight. A thicker needle than recommended can add lightness to a yarn, or vice versa. A clear example of varied results is what happens with mohair in lace or even fingering thickness. It is fine, but airy and extremely versatile. Knitted alone, in several equal strands, or in combination with other yarns, it behaves differently, but always provides an aura of softness and sophistication. With something as simple as increasing or decreasing the needle number, a mohair project will be more or less airy.
Knitted by Camila Pacchioni.
If we talk about wool, understood as an animal fibre, we can basically reduce the softness and fineness of its finish to microns. The finest and softest wools measure fewer microns. In the case of merino wool, for example, the usual values range between 16 and 24 microns. If we consider that a strand of human hair has 30 microns and that our tactile sensitivity is generally capable of perceiving from 25 microns, merino is an ideal wool for articles close to the skin, even the smallest ones.
So, you want to keep warm in winter? Merino wool is ideal. Its long, fine fibres make it soft and resistant, and it absorbs moisture without losing its warmth. It is naturally insulating - even in summer - it does not absorb odours and it is so pleasant to the touch that it is easy on even the most sensitive skin. Its different varieties offer various finishes, but basically you can opt for 100% merino versions or with some percentage of nylon (which provides even more resistance, for example, for socks).
But if you are looking for a vaporous and extremely light finish, there is nothing better than mohair. Soft, warm, light, resistant and with a very special shine, it is the yarn of the moment. It comes from the hair of Angora goats, it is extremely smooth and has significant elasticity. It insulates from the cold and is extremely versatile. Be careful, in general it is not the best option for children's clothing, precisely because of its somewhat volatile fibers. And when you decide on mohair, it has to be safe, because taking it apart here is a torture.
Woven by Orietta Soto.
Another luxury is alpaca. Extremely warm, insulating against humidity and with the ability to repel water, it has its best version in “baby alpaca”, which corresponds to the first shearing of animals from three years of age. Noble, soft and elegant, it is presented alone or combined with other fibers of its level. It is an airy yarn, which looks perfect with thin or thicker needles. And from here on we can continue detailing the characteristics of yak, vicuña, cashmere or camel, all luxury fibers that we recommend when we already have more advanced knowledge, given the particularities of each one and its exclusivity in every sense.
Knitted by Claudia Moll.
Note that the list also includes plant fibers, such as cotton, sisal, jute, linen, hemp or bamboo, which are fresh and biodegradable. And some of them are particularly popular in crochet projects. On the other hand, there are synthetic fibers, such as nylon, polyester or acrylic, which sometimes complement and improve the characteristics of natural fibers. In other cases, they simply seek to replicate natural yarns, but at a lower cost. In all scenarios, the offer and quality are varied, which is also related to price, results and durability.
And this never hurts to repeat: regardless of the yarn and tool you use, remember that all fabrics should be hand washed in cold water and dried flat in the shade to prolong their useful life. Of course, if a garment needs repeated washing, such as children's clothing, it is best to look for superwash options, which tolerate even delicate cycles in the washing machine and achieve a smoother, more polished finish.